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I am afraid that being so high above it could be dangerous so I thought I would rather have an effective method to bring it down.Two other thing to take into account:I work in a laboratory so I have a neat arsenal of acids and if need be buffers to get this under control.
Furthermore there is lots of plants, rocks a root and fine gravel. But I might be looking at this in a too simplistic maner as I am not just dealing with a buffer solution.Do you think going down by 0.1 pH a day is to fast? Hydrochloric acid has a distinctive pungent smell.
The aquarium is rather new (5 months), the fish even newer (over the last 3 months).I don't worry that controling the pH is an issue as I strongly dilute the acid to a pH of 4.5 first.If you have an access to professional grade pH meter, you should be able to find and read about buffering, that keeps pH stable and within certain range. its not just the fish, the bacteria can die and you end up with Ammonia spikeThe danger part is that the HCl is a strong acid, and it quite easy to pass the desired pH. The neutral value of the pH depends on the temperature, being lower than 7 if the temperature increases. For the purification of Table Salt. While I might eventually change the soil in my aquarium, I also need a more imediate solution.add natural stuff like peat, Driftwood or Catappa leaves. which is 1.3 higher than the recomended pH for some of my fish. In seawater, for instance, sulfate ions occur at much greater concentrations (>400 times) than those of fluoride. Much more complicated expressions are required if activities are to be used.The following three equations summarise the three scales of pH:However, the advantage of considering this additional complexity is dependent upon the abundance of fluoride in the medium. It is my understanding that KH should not change by adding acid. Works for Taiwan bee shrimp.For pH around 6.0, ADA Amazonia New (it leaches a lot of ammonia for 2 months, reserve this time for cycling or cycle in a bucket) or Light (worse color, more firm and has less ammonia). I don't doubt the measurements as its in a professional laboratory.My target pH is 6.5-6. However, the speciation of hydrochloric acid is more complicated than this simple equation implies. HCl is also a commonly used to neutralize alkalis / bases. More precisely, pH is the negative of the base 10 logarithm of the activity of the hydrogen ion. I don't thin ading some tree bark or turf will solve this problem in time.Just dont forget about salts (the good and bad). Hydrochloric acid is also present in the gastric juices in the stomach of human body which helps in digesting the foods. in equilibrium with solid phase Ba (OH) 2 :8H 2 O ↩ ↩ 2 in equilibrium with solid phase “Portlandite” ↩ ↩ 2 My tap water is rather soft so there is little buffer capacity and rather basic (pH 7.4). And make sure you dechlorinate effectively.recommended PH is just a guide.Is there any danger to my fish posed by this method?I am runing a 120L aquarium with shrimps, Honey gouramis, Ember tetras and Pangios. Hydrochloric acid/muriatic acid is used to purify the table salt.
Repeating this until pH drops by 0.1.Captive bred fish is tolerant to wide variety of water parameters, search this sub for species name and hard water for other users experience (better use search engine, reddit search doesn't work for comments). like vinegar or citric acid, just a drop or two into the water change before adding to tankthe tank ph slowly crept up due to natural causes (substrate leaching, calcium in the food/excrement)and a well-oxygenated tank is slightly basic..the 7.4 range... so you might just have a deviation of 0.9.so rather than going drastic with chemicals.So you think if I go with peat or the like and the fish stay at pH above 8 for another month it won't be an issue?Do I really remove buffering capacity if I add acids to the water? I don't know how sensible the fish are towards high pH.
The aquarium is located at work and due to lockdown someone else was aking care of it. As far as I can tell they did nothing wrong (clear water, nitrate >10mg/L, happy fish) however they did not measure the pH. It is class…
For low pH shrimp like crystals, bees and Taiwan bees (lowest for these). Neocaridina and other tap water shrimp do better in alkaline water than in unstable parameters water, and adjusting only pH, ignoring everything else, usually ends with this.Below this, ADA Africana, and for even lower Malaya (don't like it, kind of mushy). At 25 °C, solutions with a pH less than 7 are acidic, and solutions with a pH greater than 7 are basic. For Neutralization and pH Control.