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Maya Gabeira Takes a Breath Most of the alpha males who dominate the sport say Gabeira doesn't belong in their ranks, but nothing will stop her from going back in. Soon even that disappears. In 2013, Maya Gabeira towed-in to a 25m wave during a monster swell at Nazaré, Portugal’s big-wave surfing mecca. But she’s still finding ways to make good money! She finally got rid of her crutches after Christmas, and when I met up with her in January in Oahu, she had just spent 15 days working with doctors, physical therapists, and a psychologist at Red Bull’s U.S. headquarters in Los Angeles.I ask her if she has the same drive she had before the accident, if she still wants the records and awards.Kennelly, the only other woman with the skills and sponsors to chase large waves, disagrees. “They would have said the same statements had the surfer in question been male,” says Kennelly, who grew up on Kauai under Hamilton’s wing.

In fact, it’s the biggest day any of them have ever seen.The discipline’s other major factor is confidence. The press was further fueled by Burle, a 46-year-old highly respected and decorated big-wave surfer in his own right.

Two fellow surfers are on board with them: Felipe “Gordo” Cesarano is sitting behind Burle, and Pedro “Scooby” Viana is behind Gabeira. But dozens of other male surfers, many of whom have less experience and training than Gabeira, have died, nearly died, or seriously injured themselves while surfing big waves, without receiving any condemnation. "After the accident with Gabeira, Burle went back out into the lineup and shortly thereafter caught what is hands-down the biggest wave of the winter surf season thus far. "It was awful what happened to Maya. If I die there, I’d be happy.”“No way,” Gabeira says. We hear from our audience every day about how much they love our long-form journalism.

The main question seemed to be whether or not she had the talent to be out there in the first place.Back in the lineup, when another massive wall of water rears up, Scooby turns to Gabeira. Initially, the gambit worked—after 78 hours, they released the ambassador in exchange for 15 political prisoners—but Fernando was subsequently exiled from the country for nine years.Gabeira lets go of the rope and slingshots into the wave. She's been a friend for many years. Send Via Email. “I never put much effort into it, and I’m not getting paid to do that. "In an epic day, Carlos Burle, Maya Gabeira, Felipe Cezaran and handful of others surfed the massive waves of Nazaré in Portugal.Scooby and Burle have been doing quite a bit of training together, and given how quick they were to respond when the wave of the day rolled in, it seems to have paid off.After a wipeout that rendered her unconcious, Gabeira has been discharged from the hospital and is recovering. She’s clearly exhausted, and her voice is tired, but when the conversation circles back to her accident in Nazaré, she perks up.“I don’t want anything,” she says.
As we chat, she checks the wave forecasts on her computer. Burle ditches the jet ski and swims her to shore, where he and a lifeguard give her CPR. This isn’t a surprise—they’re two of the top big-wave surfers on the planet.

Gabeira is moving closer and closer to the cliffs of Nazaré, which at this point are lined with hundreds of onlookers, photographers, local news crews, and a few filmmakers from Red Bull, Gabeira’s main sponsor, who are on hand to document the record attempt. Facebook Icon

“I’m going,” he says, sliding off the back of the jet ski and into the water.Clad in a wetsuit and inflatable life vest, Maya Gabeira turns the throttle on her jet ski and motors out of the Portuguese harbor of Nazaré. “I saw her face,” Burle remembers. As she’s buried in the breaking wave, the force of her body wrenching from the straps cracks her right fibula in half just above the ankle.That’s because, more than anything, big-wave surfing is about putting in the time. Voted on by a panel of journalists and industry insiders, the award is the Oscars of big-wave surfing. We work all year to get ready for these moments and we know that the risk of losing our lives is imminent, but I'm happy she's alive.

Now I know better, and I’m a different person.
I watch her catch a few that swing wide of the main peak. By the time Burle finally reaches her, Gabeira is so incapacitated that she’s unable to grab the rescue sled attached to the back of his jet ski. That’s why I survived.